Pufferfish Soup Remains Busan Specialty After Decades of Regulation and History

Pufferfish soup is a specialty dish in Busan, South Korea. Licensed chefs prepare the fish by removing toxic parts before cooking. Diners can request to see the chef’s certificate, which is displayed in many restaurants.

Chefs complete required training and pass a national exam before receiving a license from a government department. The skin is considered safe to eat and is high in collagen. Blood and internal organs are removed and washed carefully to eliminate traces of tetrodotoxin.

Park Sung-bae, head chef at Seoul restaurant Onjium, said the combination of bean sprouts and pufferfish creates a refreshing flavor often eaten as a hangover remedy. He added that the firm texture of the fish pairs well with soup preparation.

1992, a group of Busan officials including the city mayor and police chief dined at Chowon Bokguk restaurant. The restaurant had been bugged by figures linked to the Unification People’s Party. The recordings were released three days before a presidential election and led to a legal case in which Unification Party members were convicted of trespassing.

Chowon Bokguk founder Kim Dong-sik was the first licensed pufferfish chef in Busan. The restaurant now serves set menus that include soup, fried fritters, and side dishes for 18,000 won.

Nearly all pufferfish served in Busan restaurants today come from farms that feed the fish controlled diets without tetrodotoxin. Park Sung-bae said the appeal of the dish is simple. “Just one reason: it’s delicious.